Sunday 1st – Stromboli to Taormina, Sicily

Alarm went at 5.55am again and a knock on the door at the same time by our host to confirm that the 7.25am hydrofoil is indeed leaving today. Bolted a light breakfast and to the ticket office by 6.35am to ensure we beat the rush of tourists wanting to get off the island. The sea was very nearly smooth again so expected the 2hr trip to go well. The hydrofoil did the tour of all the islands around about, dropping off and picking up passengers and it was interesting to see how they contrasted with Stromboli. Lipari Island looks gorgeous and is obviously very popular with tourists. We see now why everyone who stays in Stromboli is there for trekking up the volcano. There are plenty of other lovely islands to choose from for a more leisurely break.

Unfortunately the hydrofoil was over an hour late coming into Milazzo compared to what we expected, and we missed the 11am bus connection to Messina despite being there a bit early. Being Sunday and May day, the next bus wasn’t until 5pm. Hooked up with an UK/US couple and shared a taxi to the railway station and only a 15min wait for a train to Messina. Quick 40min trip, some through tunnels. Checked out the buses from there to Taormina but there didn’t appear to be any at all! Our original plan had us arriving in Sicily yesterday but because of the one day extra layover due to bad weather we have arrived on a Sunday. Bought a train ticket instead and an hour’s wait.

The weather has improved. No rain since yesterday afternoon and it is partly sunny and also warm. I heard the volcano rumble during the night, and things rattled in our room. John was most upset to have missed hearing it. Our host told us that the volcano is usually more active just before there is bad weather. We guess it is somehow tied to a lower barometric pressure. There were no tours up to the volcano yesterday so we were incredibly lucky to get excellent weather for the evening that we did the trek. We are really hoping we find accommodation tonight where we can wash a bunch of clothes. We may even have to take the drastic measure of finding a laundromat, as we have virtually run out of semi-decent clothes. Thank goodness I persuaded John that we should both bring two pairs of trousers. If the weather comes out hot again and we can go back to shorts and T-shirts we will be fine though.

Taormina piazza

Taormina main street

At Taormina took the local bus up to the town (well above the railway along the coast) for 1E instead of 30E for a taxi – they are brutal here apparently. A bit scary when we arrived, as the whole bus park was awash with huge groups of tourists with flag-waving guides. Town was absolutely packed. Thankfully I found a room soon, collected Karen and settled in. First step was to do some emergency washing and hang it out to start drying. The landlady here is about 4 feet tall, 107 years old and near deaf. We communicate by writing notes in Italian! Out onto the streets – actually really just one main drag. Barely room to move with a million Italian holidaymakers walking up and down at minimal pace, seeing and being seen. We parked up in the main square with a drink for an hour, simply watching the sights going by. The dress code is pretty flash, lots of super-tight jeans, many jackets, and plenty of very high heels. We feel a bit dowdy in our travelling gear, but work on the theory that nobody here knows us or will ever see us again! Our packs are quite awkward enough without more clothes. A nice set menu dinner afterwards watching Bari v Roma Serie A.